Every thirty minutes or so, a gush of ash rushes from its crater, a humble reminder of where we are. This is Sangeang Api, a commanding, impressive volcanic complex that towers over the black sandy shores of the recently settled village of Bontoh in North-east Sumbawa, Indonesia. However, despite all this volcanic fury, the village is here for one reason, and one reason only - and that’s to build a very big ship.

As our small boat approaches, my eyes strain in disbelief as we marvel at what looks like Noah’s ark being built on the village’s black sandy shoreline. Children play by simple outrigger canoes painted in a kaleidoscope of cheerful colours, and a handful of goats alongside the odd chicken or two guard the Ship’s gigantic wooden hull.

Bontoh village doesn’t have much. Its small square homes cobbled together from a jumble of materials gestures a very simple life. But what it does have, apart from the ominous volcano looming above, is world-class ship building skills.

The people here are descendants of the seafaring Bugis people from the Indonesian island of Sulawesi. These accomplished seafarers were influential in the world’s spice trade, and for centuries (alongside their close neighbours the Makassans) built splendid hand-crafted wooden ships. Chasing the monsoon winds, they would sail uncharted waters of the Indonesian archipelago and beyond, often as far as Australia, gathering sandalwood, exotic spices, prized feathers, and even gold to trade with European ships.

The ship being built here is a traditional Indonesian Pinisi, a two masted, wooden sailing ship traditionally used for fishing and cargo transportation around the archipelago. Believed to be sailing Indonesian waters since the 19th century, Pinisi are famous for their ability to cover great distances and to breeze through rough seas.

The mid-1990’s saw the development of the Pinisi as a leisure yacht, and today they are also built for use as scuba diving safari boats, with large numbers of luxury Pinisi accommodating divers in their quest to reach the archipelago’s most impressive coral reefs.

As we approach the ship, the ingenuity of this ancient craft is revealed. On closer inspection, we see that each long slender wooden piece is beautifully hand sculpted and fastened in place by tight-fitting wooden pegs. The joinery is meticulous, with each piece delicately nuzzling up against the other in flawless perfection. This Pinisi is at least 30 meters long, and is the biggest this master ship builder has ever attempted.

Never built to plans, these ships follow a sequence of proportions set to memory by master ship builders and passed down through the generations. This one has been commissioned by a Chinese client who pays the master ship builder around $10 Euro a day for his workmanship. While this one is not destined as a dive safari boat, the technique, great care and skill in its construction are the same. This one will be used for cargo, and will likely transport rice, or even cement, a far cry from the exotic spices of the past.

Without any specialised engineering training, nor the need for complicated drawings or calculations, the master ship builder builds the ship by feel. Going by instinct, he tells us he will trust his eyes and heart to uncover the memory of what he was taught. This is only the third ship he has built since learning the craft, and it’s by far the biggest. “Normally we build small fishing boats”, he says. “But this one is really big and will take a long time”. Two years has already passed since the first piece of wood was shaped, and it will take another 9 months before the ship is complete.

Previously from the busy ship building village of Wera, just a mere 30 minutes away by boat, the master ship builder, his workers and their families moved to Sangeang Island for the space needed to build the ship. “Wera was full of boats, and also many ship builders” He said. “We needed our own beach for our first really big ship”. Around 30 people reside in Bontoh village and everyone is committed to the creation of the ship. The children also say they can’t wait to build their own ships. Unless they choose to leave the island, they too will be taught this fine craft - it is part of their identity.

The village has everything it needs. The surrounding sea is plentiful with fish, so when they’re not building the ship they’re out fishing for that evening’s meal. The island also harbours fresh water, and is close to Bima, the largest regional and economic hub of Eastern Sumbawa, meaning they have good access to the wood they need. The wood for the ship is ironwood and takes about 3 days to reach Sumbawa from the island of Sulawesi.

We gaze in amazement at the workmanship of this giant wooden ark, and ask how on earth they will ever manage to launch it to the sea. We are told that every member of the village will be involved in this extraordinary effort requiring pure determination and human force, often helped by the impending king tide. “When the ship is ready to launch, we will bring another 40 people here to help us” the master ship builder says. Logs are laid down at right angles to the ship, and everyone pushes until the ship rolls over the logs and out to sea.

We can only imagine the excitement of witnessing such a triumph; oh, and the master ship builder’s relief when he sees his biggest achievement yet floating just perfectly at sea!

Alongside the ship’s launch, a huge celebration will take place. After all, an effort of this magnitude deserves a big celebration, right? Looking around, we suspect that some of the goats currently lazing by the ship’s hull might play a key role!

We say our goodbyes, board our boat and leave Bontoh village. It’s hard to believe that once the ship is surrendered to the sea, it will only be a matter of time before a new ship takes shape on Bontoh’s black sandy shores.

Facts:
The ship building settlement of Bontoh is located in the Lesser Sunda Islands on the island of Sangeang, north-east of Sumbawa in Indonesia’s Flores sea.

Just off the village’s shoreline lies a fabulous night diving site. Crocodile fish, shrimp, octopus, hunting napoleon eels, nudibranch, soft coral crabs, scorpion fish and frog fish, all star in great numbers.

The island’s volcano, Sangeang Api is one of the most active volcanoes in the region, erupting 19 times since its first recorded eruption in 1512, with the most recent being in May 2014.

In 2017, the art of ship building was recognised by UNESCO as part of a ‘millennia-long tradition of Austronesian boat building and navigation’, with the Pinisi, as the embodiment of this tradition.

We visited the village as part of a dive safari from Bali to Komodo with Mermaid Liveaboards.

Enviously located between Raja Ampat and the Lembeh Strait lies a challenging diving destination that’s surprisingly still off the radar, even for the most adventurous divers.

We divers are an opinionated lot, and although we don’t often agree, there’s generally a consensus amongst us that the Asia Pacific region takes first prize when it comes to top notch diving. So when we were deciding where to spend our Christmas and New Year break, we thought where could be better than somewhere half way between Raja Ampat and the Lembeh Strait?

Ok, see if you can guess. Lush volcanic peaks framed by swaying coconut palms, coarse sandy beaches extending to submerged coral gardens, and a mysterious atmosphere like no where else. Where you mistake the sound of a flock of Hornbills for that of a helicopter, and you’d almost swear the water was Gin, it’s that clear.We’re talking about Sali Kecil, a tiny island located in the Strait of Bacan. Ok, be honest, you’ve probably never heard of it, and even if you have you’ve only got a vague idea of where it is.

We bump our way along a meandering jungle road from Bacan’s Labhua Airport down to the waters edge, it’s prayer time and the call from the local mosque fills the warm humid air. Tired and with the evening upon us, we board a boat for our final leg to the only dive resort in the area - Sali Bay Resort on Sali Kecil. As evening falls the sky and sea are awash with diamonds as the starry night sky and bioluminescence rewards us for the long journey we’ve endured.

Located in the rarely visited waters of the southern reaches of the Indonesian island of Halmahera, and enviously located between the Lembeh Strait and Raja Ampat, the waters around this sparsely populated island are amongst the most impressive of all marine biodiversity hot spots. The waters here are uncharted, and despite its location amidst the richest seas on earth, the almost non existence of resorts and liveaboards in the area means it has remarkably remained off the radar, even for the most adventurous divers.

With the sea full of promise we are fuelled with anticipation as to what the diving here will bring. Upon submersion, we find ourselves amidst pristine coral gardens, complete with the unpredictable currents that characterise the region.

The islands of Sali Kecil (the small one) where the resort is located, and Sali Besar (the big one) are smack bang in the middle of the strait between Bacan and the main island of Halmahera. This location means that careful planning and selection of dive sites is required for safe diving. If you get it wrong, it’s all ‘washing machines’ and ‘mission impossible’ photography.

But the currents also mean the corals here are colossal. On each dive, we are dwarfed by gigantic gorgonians, elephant ear and barrel sponges, table corals and large gardens of cabbage coral. Delicate soft corals in a fury of pink and orange also star on every dive, providing a safe haven for numerous species of juvenile fish.

Whether your exploring the areas’s many sloping reefs, drop-offs or delicate coral gardens, wandering in the blue or getting down in the muck, you’ll find healthy populations of reef sharks, turtles, batfish, rays, bumphead parrotfish, napoleon wrasse (one was the size of a Fiat 500!), and more strange critters than you can begin to identify, many of which are new discoveries to the resort owners, and absent from marine life identification books. On one dive we came across what appeared to be a tiny white dragonet not much bigger than a pea!

Given its envious location, it’s not surprising that the biodiversity of marine life here is outstanding, yet its remoteness combined with a lack of marine survey data means the region is literally a ‘black box’, with very little understood. The only significant indicator of the region’s potential are the impressive results from a survey undertaken in 2005 in the south-western part of Halmahera, where renowned ichthyologist and marine zoologist Dr Gerald Allen recorded a total of 803 species of reef fish over 37 hours underwater at 28 locations. This is impressive given he recorded 828 species in Raja Ampat during a similar survey conducted over 60 hours in 2001. So maybe it’s not difficult to suggest that the region’s biodiversity could be comparable to that of Raja Ampat.

You’ll see almost every species of pygmy seahorse here, they star on every dive, and in 2013 a new species of walking shark was also discovered, Hemiscyllium Halmahera. Also known as the bamboo shark or long tail carpet shark, these sharks prefer to walk rather than swim by wriggling their bodies and pushing with their pectoral and pelvic fins. Relatively small, the species here is believed to reach a maximum of 70 cm in length. Seeing this shy creature is easy as it’s made a home in the shallow waters just off the the resort’s jetty. A dive in the late evening will give you the best chance for an encounter. We were lucky to see one during a night dive on the resort’s stunning house reef. Shy but curiously it peaked out at us from under a coral boulder before slowly shuffling backwards into the darkness. While we managed to get a quick photograph, no photograph could ever hope to capture the intimacy of the encounter.

All of this, alongside the chance of seeing of dolphins and numerous species of whale makes the region a very enticing dive destination. During a surface interval, we were lucky to encounter a pod of 20 pilot whales, including a calf who leisurely sojourned at the surface. Not in the slightest concerned about our presence, we marvelled at their majesty for almost 20 minutes before they finally slipped into the deep. The topside scenery didn’t disappoint either, with lush volcanic peaks and dense jungle vegetation, free from deforestation and inhabited by numerous species of bird and monkey.

The owners of the resort, a consortium from Italy and Switzerland are committed to protecting the marine environment and are currently working with the Indonesian government to protect the region’s unique biodiversity through the ambitious establishment of a marine park. To date, talks have been lengthy and are ongoing, but something tells me their passion for the region will help them succeed.

Want to dive here? Sali Bay Resort is located on the island of Sali Kecil in a protected bay in the Southern reaches of the island of Halmahera (North Maluku) Indonesia.

The resort caters to guests in twelve beach front deluxe villa accommodations nestled delicately on the shoreline with direct access to the sea. Larger groups can also book the Diver’s Lodge, located at the end of the bay and consisting of four rooms with private bathrooms and a wide veranda facing the sea.

Custom built dive boats and experienced guides take divers on challenging exploratory dive trips in the remote Halmahera sea, and underwater photographers are well catered for with a dedicated camera room and facilities. Twelve litre aluminium tanks with DIN and INT valves are provided and Nitrox is available.

The resort is also a paradise for snorkelers, and has the most beautifully intact and healthy house reef we’ve seen. A fresh water pool, intimate spa and fabulous food tops off the experience. Italian, German, English, Indonesian and French are fluently spoken.

Craving adventure but can’t choose between the mountains and the sea? Who said you should choose? From high altitude peaks where precious air is scarce, to deep blue lagoons and delicate coral reefs, here’s 10 breathtaking places to ignite your fearless spirit.

West of the famous Khumbu region of the Himalaya lies the Gokyo Valley. Heading on foot from Gokyo towards Thangnak will see you cross a section of the longest glacier in Nepal, the Ngazumpa. Stretching for around 25km from its beginnings on the high slopes of the famed 8,000-meter peak Cho Oyu, Ngazumpa presents a challenging high-altitude trek. The constant grinding of the glacier echoes underfoot as it moves its way ever further down the valley. A stark reminder of this strange rock that we live on.

You can cross the Ngazumpa glacier as part of World Expedition’s 21-day circuit trek that takes in the spectacular Himalayan traverse of the challenging Cho La Pass, the blue Gokyo Lakes and the Khumbu Valley leading to Mt Everest Base Camp and onwards to Kala Patthar.

Plan your trip: Visit worldexpeditions.com ; welcomenepal.com

Definitely one of Europe’s finest alpine treks, the tough 170 km circumnavigation of Mont Blanc across France, Italy and Switzerland is full of superlatives. This is adventure ‘the way you want it’, with the trek giving you the opportunity to camp in a tent, stay in pretty local accommodation, or experience the conviviality of the region’s many mountain refuges. Experienced mountaineers can also ascend the Mont Blanc mastiff itself, the highest in Europe at 4,809 meters. However you choose to experience it one thing is guaranteed, and that’s amazing local produce!

Insider tip: Avoid trekking during the popular Ultimate Tour du Mont Blanc endurance race which takes place each year on either the last weekend in August or the first weekend of September.

Plan your trip: Visit autourdumontblanc.com ; france.fr

At an altitude of 5,644 meters, climbing Kala Patthar is not for the faint hearted. Located on the south ridge of Pumori in the Nepalese Himalayas, this is the closest you can get to Mt Everest without having to climb it yourself. Oh, and it has bragging rights, as it’s actually higher than Mt Everest Base Camp. World Expeditions run fabulous trips to the region.

Insider tip: Consider travelling in December. Although December is the coldest time of the year in the Himalaya it also happens to be the clearest, so you’re sure to actually see the mountains!

Plan your trip: Visit worldexpeditions.com ; welcomenepal.com

While most adventurers scramble up the main trail from Argentina’s small settlement of El Chalten to descend on the mighty and highly recognised Cerro Fitz Roy, just a short detour off the main trail brings you to what is arguably the most spectacular glacier in the national park. With its distinctive icefalls that descend to the cirque of the North Fitz Roy mastiff, the Glacier Piedras Blancas will burn your retinas with its beauty. Definitely worth the detour.

Plan your trip: Visit losglaciares.com ; argentina.travel

With much of the desert at 4,000 meters, this is another high-altitude escapade. The landscape here harbours vast salt flats, volcanos, thermal geysers, and intense blue lagoons. Climb a volcano, or simply camp out in the desert and stargaze in what is believed to be the best location for astronomy on planet earth.

Plan your trip: Visit sanpedroatacama.com ; chile.travel

A climb to Padar Island’s impressive view point gives you an appreciation of Komodo’s rugged coastline, confirming its status as one of Indonesia’s most precious and mysterious landscapes.Whether you choose to island hop by local boat, walk with the Komodo Dragon, or dive into the depths of the region’s many impressive dive sites, a visit to Komodo is of Jurassic proportions, both terrestrial and marine.

Insider tip: If you MUST see the Komodo Dragon, give the dragons of Komodo Island a break and visit those at Rinca Island instead where populations are believed to be more stable and rangers are available to guide you.

Plan your trip: Visit indonesia.travel

As one of the most striking places on earth, Chile’s Patagonia oozes adventure and some! Whether you choose to do a day trip from nearby Puerto Natales; take on the full ‘O Circuit’, or ‘W Trek’; or snuggle up in a chic eco lodge, you’ll want to delve right in to this magical landscape.

Insider tip: Don’t be a Gortex ninja. Regardless of how much Gortex you wear, it won’t protect you from Patagonia’s unpredictable wind and rain!

Plan your trip: Visit torresdelpaine.com ; chile.travel

Forget Bali, Indonesia has over 17,000 other islands to explore, yet none offer a sunset as good as this. Loved by scuba divers for good reason, Pulau Siladen offers prime access to the famed Bunaken Marine Park, along with daily sunsets capable of making you weep. Underwater adventures are a must; with vibrant coral walls, abundant fish life, impressive macro critters and a friendly population of green and hawksbill turtles.

There is little accommodation on the island, so treat yourself to a stay at Siladen Island Resort.

Plan your trip: Visit siladen.com ; indonesia.travel

In West Papua, emerald jungle covered islands give way to brilliant white sandy beaches and delicate blue lagoons. Trek through the jungle on the quest for the Red Bird of Paradise, kayak from island to island with Kayak 4 Conservation in search of the rare Epaulette walking shark, or plunge below the surface into its coral gardens and underwater caverns harbouring the highest marine diversity anywhere on planet earth. Above or below, Raja Ampat delivers adventure in spades.

Plan your trip: Visit kayak4conservation.com ; indonesia.travel

A visit to Alor is like stumbling across a treasure chest with a kaleidoscope of colours and hidden gems that leave you breathless. The coral reefs here are exceptionally healthy, tourism is undeveloped with only a few eco operators, and the island’s here are still inhabited by many of the Flores sub ethic peoples who still preserve their traditional ways of life. Go scuba diving, free diving or just chill at the Alor Divers Eco Resort, or island hop your way around the archipelago. With mind-blowingly beautiful coral reefs, welcoming villagers and the chance to see; hammerhead sharks, dolphins, false killer whales, and marlin, what’s not to like?

Insider tip: Keep an eye out for the local fisherman as they dive to depth with their handmade wooden goggles to check their woven fishing baskets.

Plan your trip: Visit alor-divers.com ; indonesia.travel

Ok, so even if you’ve never been to the Maldives, chances are that you’ve dreamily visioned yourself there. Every computer screen-saver comes up with that dreamy picture right?

There is no doubt that the word ‘beautiful’ is an understatement when describing the Maldives, and ashamedly we’ve been there three times. Yet recently we’ve begun to think more deeply about it’s future, and it is concerning.

But first, let’s start with the good. Crystal blue lagoons with water you’d mistake for gin, brilliant talcum powder beaches and coconut trees swaying softly in the breeze, sunsets that would make even a grown man weep, and beautifully refined resorts where you feel like a superstar. That’s right, there’s no question this is paradise, but when you see it on lists like ‘10 Places to Visit Before they Disappear’ then you have to begin to worry.

The islands are at the very forefront of climate change. The very existence of the islands and the people that rely on tourism for their income are under significant threat. According to the World Bank, with "future sea levels projected to increase in the range of 10 to 100 centimeters by the year 2100, the entire country could be submerged".

It seems ironic that tourism, the very thing that’s provided economic prosperity to the Maldives since the 1970’s, is now the very thing that is contributing to its climate woes. Our insatiable appetite for travel is causing climate impacts the world over like never before.

In a climate like the Maldives, air conditioners run in every villa, every day, at every resort and homestay on almost every one of its 1000 plus islands. Seaplanes and boats use large amounts of fuel shuttling around over one million visitors a year from island to Island, and don’t forget the food miles required to feed everyone, and of course the waste.

So where does all this trash go? Thilafushi, the trash island of course! Thilafushi was once your typical pristine lagoon but it’s now the chosen location to store the growing amount of waste produced by the booming tourism industry. It’s estimated that 300 tons of rubbish, much of it from resorts is dumped daily on Thilafushi. To avoid it spilling into the sea, much of the rubbish is burned which at times can create a haze that many visitors dismiss as ‘sea fog’.

As scuba divers, over the years we have seen the degradation of the islands coral reefs. Like many places in the world, warming seas have caused mass coral bleaching events with coral turning to ghostly shadows, and unsustainable tourism and fishing practices have turned some coral reefs into piles of rubble.

While many of the region’s luxury resorts are now carving out a niche as leaders in sustainable and eco-friendly tourism through efforts in; marine conservation, growing their own food to minimize food miles, and capturing rainwater for guest drinking water in reusable glass bottles, is this enough?

With more and more islands being built and visitor numbers expected to increase significantly, the Maldives will have the ever greater challenge of managing their waste and carbon footprint.

The challenge for us all is how we travel as responsibly and sustainably as we can. Yes it’s inconvenient, but necessary to save the places we love.

Our driver weaves his way through the chaotic traffic leading to Bali’s Benoa Harbor and pulls over, “we can get out here,” he says. In a flash, our dive and camera gear are whisked down to the harbour by a friendly smiling Balinese gentleman, who I’m sure can’t believe how much gear we’ve got as he struggles with our bags. We wave goodbye to our driver and make our way down to board our home for the next week, the MV Mermaid II. As we board, I remember I still have a banana in my carry on, I quickly eat it, everyone knows that taking bananas on boats is bad luck, right? At least that’s what my dad always told me.

As we approach the Mermaid, her body glistening in the sun, the hustle and bustle of Bali begins to fade. We are on our way to Komodo, a land of Jurassic proportions, where rugged coastlines and hillsides of dry savannah stretch down to brilliant sandy beaches and delicate coral reefs.

As we board the Mermaid, we are greeted by our trip leader Montse who eagerly tells us about the exciting week of diving we’re about to have. “Apart from the dragon” she says, “the mantas are the highlight in Komodo”. As we settle into our home for the next week, assembling our dive and camera equipment, we are thrilled to see that some Brazilian divers we met whilst diving the Alor Archipelago are also on board. It’s going to be a fun week.

Located in the Lesser Sundra islands between Sumbawa and Flores, and bordering Indonesia’s East Nusa Tenggara and West Nusa Tenggara provinces, Komodo National Park is a biodiversity hot spot both terrestrial and marine.

Founded in 1980, the original purpose of the park was to protect wild populations of the world’s largest lizard, the legendary Komodo Dragon. But as the importance of the region’s unique marine biodiversity was realised, 113,000 hectares of marine reserve was added to form what we now know as the Komodo Biosphere Reserve and National Park.

A UNESCO World Heritage site for good reason, the park is believed to be home to almost 6,000 dragons across the islands of Komodo, Rinca, Gili Motong and some areas of western and northern Flores. Getting up close (but not too close) and personal with the dragon is one of the many reasons’ visitors come to the region. Yet while Komodo’s top side attractions are certainly worthy of the effort, we came for the magic that lies beneath.

After a very thorough on-board safety briefing, we leave the chaos of Bali far behind as we cruise into the sunset on route towards Sumbawa. We spend this time socialising and getting to know our diving companions and crew for the next week. There are 17 guests on board the Mermaid, although she can take 18. With divers from all over the world, the boat is full of excitement for the week of diving that lies ahead.

As my stomach starts to signal dinner time, our first meal magically appears - a delicious prawn curry and numerous side dishes served buffet style. When you’re diving four times a day food is super important and can be the difference between a good and bad trip. After the first meal, I’m happy to say that chef Bruno and his team are up to the challenge.

As late evening approaches, we retire to our cabin; complete with double bed, its own air conditioning, bathroom and good storage space. It takes us a while to settle into the rhythm of the sea and familiarise ourselves with the pulse of the Mermaid’s engines as she moves her way through the open water. Regardless of how cosy we feel, the promise of tomorrow’s diving means we’re too excited to sleep well.

The following morning, we awake moored at Moyo Island for our first dive at Angel Reef. While we’re not even in the Komodo National Park yet, the calm, clear waters below us are full of promise. On submersion, my tired eyes are now wide open as we explore the reef’s beautiful steep wall adorned in its kaleidoscope of soft corals. It’s a vision so majestic, that I find myself unconsciously edging backwards as if that would somehow help me fit the entire reef into my field of view. With reef sharks, shoals of small fish and bigger species, like batfish, bannerfish and red tooth triggerfish dancing around us, this is a magical way to start our trip.

Unless you’ve been living under a rock somewhere, you’ll undoubtedly be aware of the celebrated diversity of Indonesia’s reefs. Komodo’s waters provide a safe environment for hundreds of species of coral, sponges and bony fishes along with crustaceans, turtles, dolphins, whales, manta ray, sharks and numerous invertebrates - all attracted by its nutrient rich waters and often ferocious currents.

Over a mouth-watering lunch, of which I added a regrettable mountain of chilli sambal, dive guide Yeray tells us that there are over 50 dive sites in the Komodo area. “There’s an astounding diversity of marine species here” he explains. “Almost anywhere you get in the water is an amazing dive site”.

With food in our bellies we retire to the sundeck for a quick nap. The soft breeze and warm sun is the perfect recipe for relaxing. As I begin to drift off to sleep someone shouts “dolphins”. Dragging ourselves up off the deck we approach the railing and peer over. Actually, it’s not dolphins, but mobula rays dancing at the surface. We watch them as they hunt a bait ball of small fish and wait in anticipation for their cheerful acrobatic display - but not today.

It’s not long and we’re back in the water searching for pygmy seahorse, before cruising two hours to Satonda Island for our first sunset dive at Satonda Sandy. We head to the dive deck and gear up. With quiet seas and the sky on fire we board our dive tender. Yes, it’s as good as it sounds.

While the Komodo region can be dived via land-based operators out of Labuan Bajo in Flores, the absence of land-based operators in the National Park itself means long boat rides can be necessary to reach the parks best dive sites. The region therefore lends itself well to a dive safari boat which ensures jaw dropping topside scenery and superior access to the park’s impressive dive sites.

Although most dive safari boats base themselves in Labuan Bajo, being ‘liveaboard virgins’ we chose to board the Mermaid II for its size, reputation and convenient Bali - Komodo - Bali itinerary.

Exploring Indonesia’s waters for almost 20 years, the Mermaid II is an impressive dive safari boat catering to 18 divers in deluxe accommodations. A large comfortable dive deck and dive platform provide easy exits and entries to the dive boats, and as photographers, we were thrilled to see the dive deck was complete with camera setup and rinsing stations making it easy to keep our equipment maintained and clean.

Naturally, being our first liveaboard trip we were slightly apprehensive at first, but as we eased into the rhythm of the sea we actually loved being on board. I’m not sure if it was a side effect of the sea sickness tablets, but it was as if the Mermaid floated wherever it liked, and I wondered if actually a giant octopus was gently carrying it around for reasons lost to time.

Each day on the Mermaid went something like this: eat, dive, eat, sleep, dive, eat, sleep, dive, eat, sleep, repeat. And while the daily naps weren’t mandatory, we’d certainly recommend them.

Whilst it would take a lifetime to explore all of the dive sites around Komodo’s islands, we spend the next few days enjoying some of the most famous sites in the National Park.

At Castle Rock huge schools of fusiliers and surgeon fishes seduced giant trevallies and Spanish mackerel. White tip and black tip sharks also patrolled the area, alongside eagle rays, blue spotted rays and hawksbill turtles.

Cannibal Rock’s stunning corals were home to sea apples, devil scorpion fish, pygmy seahorse, octopus and many varieties of nudibranch and flatworms, alongside large schools of fish, including big eye snapper and yellow-mask surgeon fish.

With low visibility because of its southern location and nutrient rich waters, Secret Garden appeared as a magical emerald underworld with masses of striking soft corals, cuttlefish, blue spotted stingray, frogfish, leaf scorpion fish and schools of five-lined snapper and fusiliers.

When you’re diving, it’s easy to always focus on the majesty of the ocean, after all that’s what we were here for right? It’s only as the day of diving ended that I remembered to look around me to see the magnificent Padar Island. We board our dive tender, approach the island and surrender to the allure of land. As we climb to Padar’s impressive view point, Komodo’s rugged coastline is bathed in a soft glow. By the time we reach the top, a riot of colour confirms its status as one of Indonesia’s most magical landscapes.

The Mermaid’s eight-day, seven-night itinerary included a total of 20 dives with the added highlight of walking with the dragons. Found nowhere else in the world, the Komodo Dragon as you may remember from its debut in James Bond’s Casino Royale is known for its impressive size, formidable appearance and astonishing ability to devour very large animals. As we step foot on the island of Rinca our ranger Benny stands proud with a large forked stick. “Just in case they get a bit close” he explains. “But if they start to get aggressive, then get ready to run”. He goes on to tell us that the dragon’s saliva contains bacteria that will eventually kill another animal. “The dragon bites the buffalo and then stalks it, sometimes for up to a week until it dies and it can be devoured” he says. Needless to say, our friendship with the dragon is somewhat aloof.!

Before getting back on board, an impromptu game of football begins. Typical, you can always trust Brazilians to find a football!

The next morning, we attempt the most anticipated dive of the trip, the Shotgun. As we descend down and make our way towards an area known as the Cauldron, we are welcomed by a large school of huge bump head parrot fish cruising the water like the coolest kids in school. We cross the Cauldron and approach a narrow passage of water; this is the Shotgun. When at its entrance, I expel the air from my buoyancy vest in anticipation of being shot headfirst and up towards the surface. Our dive guide Angela signals “one, two, three” and a gun with her hand as we feel the current lift us up and accelerate us forward. As we fly along, tumbling like a grain of rice in a boiling pot they appear; the most vulnerable, intelligent and enigmatic creatures in our oceans, the manta ray. Gently flapping their pectoral fins, they hover in the strong current. Like huge fighter jets, their mouths are wide open as they enjoy the nutritious plankton rich waters. It’s as if we have entered a manta mega restaurant! We continue to shoot the passage, passing more and more mantas as we go. I do my best to stay up current and enjoy an intimate moment with them. As always, these amazing creatures left a lasting memory that no camera could ever hope to capture.

Our exhilarating dive at Shotgun is followed by a dreamy dive at Crystal Rock, where we spend most of the dive marvelling at turtles, rays and dancing with huge schools of jack fish.

That afternoon we begin to motor our way back towards Bali stopping off at the Sangeang Volcano. Every thirty minutes or so, a gust of ash rushes from its crater, a humble reminder of this strange rock that we live on. I was surprised to see that at the base of the volcano lay a small village settlement, Bontoh village - yes people actually live here!

Today’s afternoon dive is located at the base of the volcano and is appropriately named Hot Rocks. As we descend down, I immediately make my way to the black sandy bottom to play in the bubbles caused by the persistent rumbling deep within the volcano’s bowels. As I move closer to the bubbles and lay my hand on the black sandy bottom, I feel a significant rise in temperature. A good reminder of where we are! As we move through the dive, the bubbling black sandy area gives way to a huge concentration of delicate soft corals in a myriad of colours.

We make our way back to the boat for a quick snack before boarding our dive tender to visit Bontoh village. On the shoreline, the children play by simple outrigger canoes painted in a kaleidoscope of cheerful colours.

As we approach, my eyes strain in disbelief as we witness what looks like a huge ark being built on the village’s black sandy shores. It turns out that the people here are actually descendants of the seafaring Bugis people from the Indonesian island of Sulawesi of whom were specialist boat builders and instrumental in the world’s spice trade. The village here has been building ships for generations, but this is their biggest yet. It’s for a Chinese client and is destined as a cargo ship. A handful of goats alongside the odd chicken guard the ship’s hull. We gaze in amazement at the workmanship of this wooden ark, and wonder how on earth they will ever manage to launch it to the sea.

Bontoh village doesn’t have much, its square shacks cobbled together from a jumble of materials gestured a very simple life. But what they do have, is a world -class muck diving site which we were itching to explore.

After purchasing some traditional handmade wooden free diving goggles from one of the village’s residents (and yes, they actually seal!), we make our way back to the Mermaid to gear up for what will be our last night dive and also a highlight of the trip.

When to dive Komodo
While Komodo can be dived all year round, the best time to dive is generally considered to be between June and October when visibility is at its best (25-35 meters). From December to March, operators tend to dive only the southern dive sites where water temperatures are cooler and visibility is around 10 - 15 meters. We visited at the end of September and experienced calm seas and fabulous visibility on most sites. Water temperatures in the northern sites at this time of year are around 27 degrees, while southern sites are considerably cooler at around 24 degrees.

The Mermaid’s Bali- Komodo-Bali itinerary provided the opportunity to dive both within and outside of the Komodo National Park, taking in dives at Moyo Island and Sangeang Island off the coast of Sumbawa, Satonda Island, and of course the Komodo National Park itself.

How to get there
Joining the Mermaid II is easy with the boat departing and arriving at Bali’s Benoa Harbour. Bali is serviced domestically by Garuda Indonesia and Lion Air from Jakarta and numerous other Indonesian cities. If choosing a land-based option, your point of entry to Komodo will be Labuan Bajo. For the adventurous island hopper, there are also several passenger ferries operating in the East Nusa Tenggara Island chain.

So now that we’re no longer ‘liveaboard virgins’, I’d have to say that this type of scuba travel has won us over. A boat full of like-minded people passionate about the ocean and photography, great food, jaw dropping scenery, incredible diving and almost all the comforts of home - what’s not to like? Oh, and did we mention you can duel with dragons?

For more information on diving Komodo aboard the Mermaid II contact mermaidliveaboards.com. A weeks diving Komodo aboard the Mermaid II will set you back around $2,700 Euros per person.

As for the diving, well all we can say is wow! The reefs here are diverse; from slopes, canyons, seamounts, drifts and calm lagoons; the sheer abundance of fish in these waters is difficult to match. This, combined with the quality and diversity of its coral species and macro critter life makes for a thrilling diving adventure.

From the comprehensive dive briefing from Resort Manager Chris Harvey, to the all Papuan dive team who have a keen eye for everything from sharks to pygmy seahorse, this is a flawless dive operation. Diving here is unique, not only because of the resort’s outstanding location but because of the expert local knowledge of the dive sites, marine life and currents which comes from more than 21 years experience in the region.

Whilst it’s difficult to choose, here are a few of our favourite dive sites

Cape Kri
This is of course the dive site where Dr Gerald Allen set the world record by counting over 374 fish species on a single tank dive. After entering from the south-east side of Kri Island, you make your way to the drop off where a steep sloping reef decends to around 40 meters. Soft and hard corals abound, where schools of small fish bring in hunting giant trevallies, spanish mackerel and tuna. White tip, black tip and grey reef sharks are also seen, along with passing hawksbill turtles and schools of ribbon sweetlips. The site also harbours an impressive range of macro critters, so be sure to keep an eye out for scorpion fish, nudibranch and delicate sea fans harbouring pygmy seahorse as you gradually ascend to your safety stop.

Sardines
Best suited to experienced divers, particularly around the full or new moon when currents tend to run faster, this site can harness so many fish that they block out the sunlight! Best dived when the current is running from east to west, be ready to hook in and wait for the show. Numerous species of schooling fusiliers, trevally and barracuda are common, alongside black tip, white tip and grey reef sharks, bump head parrot fish, bat fish and napoleon wrasse.

Blue Magic
This submerged seamount offers healthy and diverse coral gardens alive with the smallest of critters, along with patrolling grey reef sharks, hunting tuna, barracuda and the enigmatic Manta Ray (in season). The reef has a mix of hard and soft coral species including brain and table corals, gorgonian fans and large coral bommies carpeted with a myriad of soft coral species. This is a beautiful dive with something for everyone.

The thing we love about scuba diving is that it takes us to places way off the radar, and our recent trip to the magnificent Alor Archipelago In Indonesia’s East Nusa Tenggara province was no exception.

Diving in Alor is like stumbling across a treasure chest with a kaleidoscope of colors and hidden gems that take your breath away. Boasting over 50 dive sites, with an array of marine life, some of which are only found in Alor’s waters, this is definitely scuba heaven. The reefs here are exceptionally healthy, tourism is undeveloped with only a few eco operators catering for experienced divers, and the islands here are still inhabited by many of the Flores sub ethic peoples who still preserve their traditional ways of life.

The Jetty
The local jetty at Bajalang doesn’t fail to impress. Apparently only five years old, it’s pylons are covered in amazing coral growth and numerous varieties of nudibranch, frogfish, ghost pipe fish, shrimps, sea spiders, and crabs. The Jetty also provides a safe habitat for many species of juvenile fish to grow before they leave the protection of the Jetty for the open ocean. A resident school of very friendly Bat fish provide for some fabulous wide angle photography. An impressive dive site not to be missed.

Where we stayed
We stayed at the Alor Divers Eco Resort, one of very few options in the area. The resort itself is nestled delicately amongst the native vegetation on a pristine white sandy beach. Catering to only 16 divers, this place is barefoot luxury at its best.

The resort has a selection of standard and deluxe bungalows. We chose to stay in one of 3 recently built Deluxe Bungalows at the end of the beach.

Exceptionally private, each are tastefully appointed in a traditional style, complete with all the comfort divers need. Proper hangers for drying wetsuits, two desk stations complete with power boards for assembling and charging your precious underwater camera equipment, a super comfy bed with mosquito net and lovely outdoor bathroom with eco body products.

The bungalows are not air conditioned, but this didn’t bother us in the slightest. While the days are warm, the evenings cool to a pleasant temperature for sleeping and the open air design of the Bungalows means the air flows through the building structure keeping you completely comfortable. We slept under the mosquito net with the double sliding doors wide open, allowing ourselves to be immersed in the sounds of the ocean, the light from the moon, and the rising of the sun.

Managed by British/ Dutch couple Rob and Yardena Wareham-de Haan, we felt completely at home the moment we arrived. Both Rob and Dena are very experienced in both managing the resort and guiding guests on the local dive sites. We were less experienced than some of the other divers, but they made us feel instantly comfortable and helped us improve our diving and camera skills during our stay. The stand-out quality of management was how engaging and fun loving they are. Well travelled and open minded, they had all the guests in stitches with their stories, making it easy for everyone to integrate and enjoy each other’s company regardless of country or culture. During our stay we had divers from France, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Brazil, Hong Kong and of course us Aussies.

The resorts eco credentials are impressive. Each of the individual buildings are positioned to compliment the natural environment and were built from local materials with natural thatched roofing. The resort was constructed by local people from the nearby villages, and was designed to ensure protection from the heat eliminating the need for air conditioning.

The dive boats are small, efficient and quite and adhere to the strictest emissions standards. Water is supplied from the resorts own underground water reserve, and all waste is either composted or returned to the main island where it is shipped for recycling.

How to get to Alor
Alor may not be the easiest place to access and facilities here are limited, but that’s what makes it so special.

Alor’s Mali Airport is serviced by direct flights from Kupang, which has connections to the major Indonesian cities of Jakarta and Denpasar, Bali. Kupang is only currently serviced domestically, so transiting through Bali or Jakarta is necessary.

While the lack of easy connections and flight cancellations can make traveling a bit arduous depending on where you are coming from, once you arrive and descend beneath the surface you’ll soon understand why the journey was worth it.

Would we return? Absolutely! When’s the next flight!

You’ve got a murderous headache, nausea and you’ve lost your appetite. Your nose bleeds, and the dry air has opened up cracks in your skin. The cold hurts your lungs and even with two pairs of socks your toes are numb - but one look at the view burns your retinas and you wouldn’t dream of being anywhere else.

This is high altitude trekking, the next step many hikers take in their pursuit of adventure. So how do you prepare to make your high altitude trek more enjoyable?

While we are certainly not experts in this field, here’s what works for us. But firstly, let’s talk about altitude.

Altitude
There is the common misconception that the percentage of oxygen in the atmosphere at higher altitudes is lower, yet this couldn’t be further from the truth. Regardless of whether you are at sea level or on the summit of Mt Everest, the atmosphere still contains 20.93 percent oxygen. The reason you have difficulty breathing at altitude is because the barometric pressure in the air decreases as you ascend higher, meaning it’s more difficult for the air to enter your lungs. So while the percentage of oxygen available is the same, your lungs have to work a lot harder to get enough air in.

Breathing easy
We are lucky that our GP is a mountain enthusiast who has done a lot of mountaineering, so we welcomed his knowledge and advice when it came to easier breathing techniques.

Because of the change in barometric pressure, your first instinct is to force air into your lungs by breathing harder and faster. We found however that breathing became far more easier the more we slowed down our breath and increased its depth, so kinda like breathing into your stomach. This is where Yoga breathing techniques come in handy. If you have never done Yoga before, enrolling in a few classes will not only teach you deep breathing techniques, but will also improve your flexibility - this will do wonders for your trek.

Another technique our GP gave to us was to practice what he called ‘Pressure Breathing’, which is to purse your lips and exhale a bit more forcefully. While it felt a bit weird, this technique apparently enables an easier oxygen exchange in your lungs.

It’s all in your head
Everyone thinks that high altitude trekking is all about physical fitness, and while you do need to be super fit to sustain an extended period trekking at high altitude, your mental fitness is just as important.

Trekking at altitude is both physically and mentally challenging. It pushes the body in a way that few other sports do.

Take this scenario: You wake each day after sleeping on a hard surface in a small tent, often on the snow. You don’t feel particularly well, and you can’t wash like you would at home. Maybe you can manage a small bowl of water (if your lucky), but it’s far from that hot shower your dreaming of.

You put on the same layers of clothing everyday. You eat quite uninspiring meals, and each day can be a battle of altitude sickness, rocks, boulders and ice. This is your day - day after day after day - everyday, until your quest has been realised.

Maybe your quest is to climb a peak, maybe it’s to simply cross a high mountain pass, but regardless of what your striving to achieve, each day requires unwavering focus, determination, and of course ‘Clif’ bars!

You also have to be able to overcome failure, as not everyone may complete the trek, or make it to the summit.

So how do you become mentally fit? We found that the only way to get our head right was to get our bodies right. Being physically prepared will instil a confidence in your ability, therefore not allowing any demons of doubt to creep in. It’s also important to understand the environment you are going to, after all they say knowledge is power. Be sure to take everything one step at a time. Stay focussed, relax, and trust in the physical preparation you have done.

Physical fitness
Because there are serious risks involved with high-altitude trekking , including altitude sickness, acute mountain syndrome and pulmonary edema, all of which can result in death, it’s really important to train your body to work effectively in a low oxygen environment.

When training for our first trip to the Himalaya we undertook a combination of high intensity interval training at the gym, self sufficient ‘hilly’ overnight hiking carrying a full pack, and two x 2-hour high intensity interval training sessions per week in the altitude training chamber at our local gym.

Interval training is believed to help your cardiovascular system manage the stress of of limited oxygen levels at higher altitudes. We particularly liked our gyms high intensity Circuit or HITT classes that combined a number of different exercises including cardio and strength building. These classes included everything from the treadmill, bike, weights, kettlebells, and medicine balls. You can also can train in the gym with your pack or a weighted vest to mimic the weight that you might be carrying during your trek.

We aimed for about 5 sessions of high intensity interval training per week, plus overnight hiking whenever we could. While the gym is great, the best thing you can really do to train is to do the activity you will be doing whilst on your trek. So carrying a pack up hill and being self sufficient is going to give you the best preparation both physically and mentally. Camping overnight in all weather conditions, having to carry everything you need also gives you that ‘discomfort training’ that the gym won’t. After all, it’s highly likely that you will be uncomfortable at times during your trek.

We started our training 6 months prior to our trip with the altitude chamber training taking place in the final 2 months.

A place that has long inspired poets and writers, Valparaiso is (in the words of famous Chilean poet and politician Pablo Neruda), a wonderful mess! It’s maze of Cerros (hills) with winding, steep and narrow streets; dilapidated and quirky architecture; endless staircases; and a gritty bohemian vibe makes it a must see stop on any visit to Chile.

While many people visit Valparaíso on a day trip from Santiago, you can easily spend 4-5 days here exploring the stories hidden in its amazing street art, staircases, funiculars and buildings. The colour in this place will blow your retinas, from brightly coloured painted homes to the wildest street art you’ll find anywhere in the world.

The street art here is prolific, particularly in the winding streets of it spectacularly chaotic and faded Cerros (hill-sides). Not only is it everywhere, including on the local garbage trucks, but each piece of art tells a story. From history, popular culture, politics and global issues you could spend months absorbing this syncopated city.

The best way to experience Valparaíso is to simply wander. It’s crazy maze of one way streets that never run parallel to one another, combined with its lack of traditional signage just adds to its appeal, craziness and charm. Choose your footwear wisely as most paths are steep and streets often cobbled.

Don’t miss a trip on one of Valparaíso’s 15 funiculars. Built between 1883 and 1916, these babies will save your legs and get you up those hills in a flash.

While a lot of the focus today is on Valparaíso’s heritage listed Cerros, don’t forget to explore the port district; where tourists, sailors, dock workers, fisherman, artists and prostitutes collide. Here you’ll get a real feel for the city’s seafaring side. There are also some stunning historic buildings here too, including the headquarters of the Chilean navy which is definitely worth a photograph.

While a bit touristy, try and take a boat trip from the harbour. Not only do they provide a fabulous view of Valparaíso’s spectacular Cerros, but you get to see the biggest, fattest and happiest seals ever! For just a few dollars you’ll get a 1 hour crowded boat trip complete with a crazy Chilean entertaining the crowd. Brush up on your Spanish as no English translation is provided. While at first we were a bit apprehensive, it was super funny - needless to say, we loved it!

If you are looking to party, there’s no better time to visit Valparaíso than New Years Eve. We arrived alongside 1 million Chileans! You’ll be guaranteed to be soaked in sparkling wine and you’ll be sure to make lots of Chilean friends. They’re a friendly bunch!

No visit to Valparaíso would be complete without a visit to La Sebastiana, the home of Valparaíso’s most famous resident - poet and politician Pablo Neruda. Getting to the house is a mean effort with a murderous uphill hike, but certainly worth it - even if just for the view. Just be sure to arrive early as it does get busy.

“Valparaiso, how absurd you are......you haven’t combed your hair, you’ve never had time to get dressed, life has always surprised you” Pablo Neruda.

If you’ve ever been lucky enough to encounter a Manta Ray you’ll agree that they are one of the most fascinating, intelligent and enigmatic creatures in our oceans, but they are also one of the most vulnerable. Having dived with them for the first time recently, we are now captivated by the plight of their ongoing protection and survival.

Habitat destruction, over fishing, climate change and irresponsible tourism are all significantly impacting these highly curious and social animals, but it’s the more recent market for their gill plates that sickens us the most.

Over the past few decades, a significant market for their gill plates have developed for use in Traditional Chinese Medicine. Mainly sold in Southern China’s Guangzhou region to cure everything from cancer, infertility and chicken pox, a slaughtered Manta can be purchased for anywhere between a mere $40 to $500 USD.

While there is no scientific evidence whatsoever to the claim that the gill plates can detoxify and purify the human body by filtering out disease - just like the gill plates filter plankton from the water, fisheries are continuing to target them for their highly prized gills leading to devastating impacts on populations.

If your reading this, then your probably eager to engage seriously with the concept of travelling more mindfully and responsibly. Like us, you’re probably one of those people who feels guilty about flying, and finds the whole idea of sustainability and travelling challenging. We get it, the CO2 emissions per-passenger are huge! But there is a lot you can do to minimise your impact and travel more sustainably and responsibly. Here are a few of the things we try to do:

1. Always offset your carbon emissions. Yes, it does cost that little extra but your conscience and the environment will thank you. Organisations like Conservation International allow you to calculate the carbon footprint from your trip and offset your impact for a fee. The fee you pay goes directly to support community driven projects that protect and restore critical forests around the world.
2. Always consider the length of your trip in relation to the distance you’re travelling. So if you are travelling quite far, try and spend as much time in that destination as possible.
3. Intensive livestock farming is still the number one cause of CO2 emissions, so eat less meat. Also eat less fish, especially in areas where local people rely on the ocean for their daily protein as these fisheries are likely to be under considerable strain.
4. Always take your rubbish with you and reduce your plastic consumption. Many countries are not well equipped to deal with waste as effectively as others, especially things like plastic and disposing of batteries. A lot of countries just burn their rubbish without recycling it, so take what you can home with you.
5. If you see rubbish on beaches, forest, or in the ocean, do your best to collect it and find somewhere suitable to dispose it. Not only is the sight of rubbish off-putting, but it flows into rivers, lakes and oceans causing significant threat to wildlife and marine life.
6. Bring your own drinking flask and re use it. If the water in your accommodation is not safe to drink, ask your accomodation provider to refill your flask. Don’t let them get away with providing you with drinking water in plastic bottles.
7. Bring your own tote bag for shopping and avoid the need for a plastic bag.
8. Refuse those plastic straws in your cocktail. Enough said. We don’t need to show you a photograph of a turtle with a straw up it’s nose to know that plastic straws are evil.
9. Try and stay in environmentally-friendly accommodation. The word ‘eco’ these days tends to attract a higher price tag but there are some exceptions. If the accommodation is made from locally sourced materials, uses locally sourced ingredients when cooking, and uses solar electricity then you’re almost there.
10. Try to avoid leaving shower and taps running for longer than you need. In many countries fresh water is scarce.
11. If you are not in your room, turn off air conditioners and lights. Try not to waste electricity.
12. Don’t stay in large hotel chains or resorts. While they provide jobs for local people, many are foreign owned and it’s unlikely that the economic benefit from your stay will flow back to the local community.
13. Try and visit lesser known destinations where the impact of tourism is less. This not only gives you a unique and different adventure to that of your friends, but will give over-popular destinations a break and disperse the economic benefit from your stay to other areas that need it. Just remember to lessen your impact in these destinations as they don’t often have the facilities to deal with tourism.
14. Don’t support animal tourism and don’t touch, tease or harass wildlife or marine life. Whilst it’s amazing to have a wild animal experience you are probably totally unaware of the abuse that often goes on behind the scenes. Instead, go for a quiet walk in the jungle or forest, or grab a snorkel or scuba gear and see what you can find for yourself. Just be mindful of fragile eco-systems including plants and coral reefs.
15. Use local businesses and tour operators. E.g. support the local fisherman that offered you a tour in his own boat. In many countries having an income from tourism prevents locals from engaging in environmentally damaging practices like shark finning and slaughtering Manta Ray for their prized gill plates.
16. Don’t buy products or souvenirs which have been made from products from the ocean such as shell or coral ornaments.
17. Leave motorised vehicles and scooters behind if you can and instead hire a bicycle. You’ll get some exercise and will be closer to nature. After all, what could be better than riding through a forest or feeling the salt air on your skin?
18. Finally, remember that travelling is not just about having a good time, but is about gaining a broader view of the world. Engaging and respecting other cultures and learning new things is key to travel, so why not volunteer some of your time to a local social or environmental project.

Happy adventuring!
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We had not been scuba diving for that long, so when we embarked on our most adventurous dive yet at dive number 16 we weren’t quite sure what to expect. How would we feel about coming face to face with a Tiger Shark, would it be scary or would it instil in us a love for them forevermore?

On the morning of our first shark dive (we won’t lie), we were nervous. The weather was worsening due to a cyclone in neighbouring Vanuatu and we weren’t quite cosy with the conditions of our dive boat, the diligence of our guides, nor our hire equipment. With a huge swell, the captain motored 30 minutes to the ‘Cathedral’ dive site and dropped the anchor.

As we prepared our dive equipment Peter was slightly green, sometimes the sea just gets too much for him! We opted to get in the water as soon as possible, remembering that someone had recently told us that it was ok to vomit in your regulator! As we immersed ourselves into the deep blue the current pushed hard against us, using the buoy line we managed to make our way down to the Cathedral’s sandy bottom at 21 meters. We waited for the stars of the show to appear.

Before we had time to settle, a huge 7 meter female Tiger Shark appeared, the tiger stripes on her pregnant body glistening as the sun streamed from above. We were mesmerised. One of the greatest predators, so close, so majestic and magical, right before our eyes. She was soon joined by 6 other large Tiger Sharks, some quirky lemon sharks and of course the mighty bull shark - about 20 of them!

We stayed mesmerised for the duration of the dive, begging them to come closer and closer. We emerged from that dive forever changed, and forever in love with the most misunderstood creature in our oceans.

If you love the outdoors like us, then you’ve probably already hiked, or at least heard of the W Trek in Chile’s Patagonia.

The gateway town to the 'W' is Puerto Natales which is easily reached by bus from southern Argentina or from Chile. Its a great place to pick up supplies and meet fellow trekkers. You can hire camping equipment for the trail and purchase whatever you need. The town is totally geared up for visitors so finding information about the trek is easy. Regular buses run from Puerto Natales to the Torres Del Paine National Park which is the start of the trail, and unless you have your own transport, this is the best way to get to the start of your trek. Information about the trail is readily available online, so we won’t bore you with all the detail, but here are our top tips on hiking this epic world class trail.

1. The best time to hike the W is in the Patagonian summer months between November and February. We hiked the trail in mid January and while certain parts were quite busy, there were still sections where you felt you were the only one for kilometres.

2. No matter what time of year you attempt the trail the weather is very temperamental. Over the course of the trek you will be hot, wet, cold and wind swept. The wind here is strong enough to knock you off your feet! You need to be prepared for all types of weather conditions on the trail so pack appropriately, remembering that you have to carry it!

3. Don’t be a Gortex Ninja - waterproofing yourself head to toe is not the answer. While you think covering up keeps you dry, it only makes you more wet......sweating like crazy on the inside! Our tip ? Have one pair of trekking clothes (AKA wet,smelly clothes that you wear while hiking during the day), and one pair of dry clothes to change into at night. If you get wet and feel cold, just walk faster to stay warm. Believe us, you’ll be warmer and dryer than those Gortex Ninjas!

4. Ensure you waterproof your pack, and that doesn’t mean using a pack cover. Use individual waterproof stuff sacks, or a large garbage bag (make sure you continue to reuse it) inside your pack to keep everything - especially your night time clothing dry. Pack covers are useless in such extreme weather conditions. They either fly straight off in the Patagonian wind, or bug the crap out of your fellow hikers as they flicker uncontrollably! Having your pack properly waterproofed also means you can throw it in a puddle and use it as a seat at lunch without all your stuff getting wet!

5. Keep moving. Don’t stop for too long as you will get cold.

6. Take the trail all the way up the Valle de Frances to Britannica. Many people miss this section as it’s a long day and is quite steep, it is however spectacular and a highlight of the trail. Leave your pack at the Italiano rangers station to lighten your load.

7. Make sure you book. Regardless of if you’re staying inside a Refugio or camping, parks personnel will not allow you into the park without a confirmed booking. Refugios and camping sites can be booked through Fantastico Sur and Vertice Patagonia. These two seperate companies operate various refugios in the park so it’s necessary to book with both depending on the direction and route you choose to take. Both have websites with easy online booking facilities. www.verticepatagonia.cl. www.fantasticosur.com/en/

8. You don’t need to join a tour group. This is easily a self guided hike and even if you just do it on your own the refugios guarantee you’ll meet a diverse range of people from all over the world.

9. Drink from the glacial streams. The water here is pristine and there is water available everywhere. Fill up your water bottle and drink away.

10. Enjoy the moment. Have fun, breathe in the immense natural beauty of the landscape and talk to people. You’ll make life long memories and friendships.

11. Take lots of photographs but leave only footprints. The environment here is pristine so respect it.

Indonesia boasts a marvellous array of natural beauty and is home to what is undeniably some of the world’s most spectacular marine eco-systems.

North Sulawesi, best known for its breathtaking and vibrant coral walls has become world renowned for good reason. The area boasts vibrant corals, abundant fish life and a healthy population of green and hawksbill turtles. The region offers a mix of both reef and muck diving with a range of impressive macro critters. The currents here are medium to strong in some parts, with warm water and good all year-round visibility.

We opted to stay on Pulau Siladen Island at the Siladen Island Resort and Spa accessible by boat from the main island of Manado. Run by General Managers Ana and Miguel Ribeiro, the resort is an impressive example of exquisite and secluded comfort in the heart of the Bunaken Marine Park.

The property is located on the western side of the island on a 300 meter long stretch of white coral reef beach facing the Manado Tua volcano. So as you would expect, there are breathtaking sunsets all year round.

This is a full-service dive resort, with all the luxuries and comfort divers need. Great boats and fabulous guides that know where to find even the smallest of critters make the diving experience here second to none. Ever seen a baby frog fish less than the size of a lady beetle? Your guide will find it!

When you’re not diving on one of the marine park’s fabulous dive sites, there is a large free form salt water swimming pool complete with sun beds, umbrellas and beach towels.

The accommodation is very private and beautifully appointed with a combination of Garden, Beach View and Luxury Villas. We stayed in one of the 6 Beach View Villas, generously sized at 64 sq meters with beautiful wooden features, including: a king size draped poster bed, private outdoor bathroom, private sun beds and a sun deck.

While the resort caters for both divers and non-divers alike, 80% of guests during our stay were divers, so it’s a fabulous place to meet people from all over the world, share stories and make life long friendships.

While the region boasts a huge number of dive sites, here are a few of our favourites:

Siladen Jetty
A phenomenal wall dive off the south west corner of Siladen Island and accessed from the jetty in the main village. On its impressive coral wall lie Scorpion Fish, a kaleidoscope of colourful Nudi Branch, Orangutan Crabs and Bubble Corals, with Green Turtles and Sharks frequent visitors. The variety of species on this site is remarkable.

Sachiko and Cha Cha
These two dive sites are fantastic drift dives which can be dived shallow or at depth making them suitable for all levels. Famous for their huge sponges, barrels, plate corals and boulder corals, the colours down there will blow your retinas! There is also a collection of Gorgonian sea fans which if your lucky will harbour a collection of Pygmy Seahorse. These two sites are comfortable drift dives with almost guaranteed turtle encounters and possibilities of pelagics such as Eagle Rays.

FACTS:

Bunaken Marine Park is located just of Bunaken and Manado Islands in Indonesia’s North Sulawesi.

Manado is accessible via a 4 hour direct flight from Singapore with Silk Air, with links to other Indonesian cities such as Jakarta.

A Beach View Villa at Siladen Island Resort and Spa will cost you around $2,900 Euro per couple (depending on the season), this includes all meals (full board) for 7 nights. Diving is not included, yet is very reasonably priced.
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Want to know more? Visit www.siladen.com

In recent years Nepal, and in particular the Everest Base Camp Trek has become hugely popular. So how do you experience the thrill of visiting Everest Base Camp without feeling like you’re at the circus?

Here’s our tips on avoiding the crowds and staying safe on the trail.

1. While considerably more challenging than the standard base camp trek, taking the lesser known path that includes the spectacular Himalayan traverse of the challenging Cho La pass, the blue Gokyo lakes and the Khumbu Valley leading to Mt Everest Base Camp and onwards to Kala Pathar, ensures you avoid the standard base camp route and stay off the beaten track. Regardless of if you are travelling solo or as part of a group tour, opt for this route. Not only is it quiet but also more spectacular.

2. Choose to travel in December. While December is the coldest time of the year in the Himalaya it is also the clearest. We departed on the 7th of December and experienced 21 days of bluebird skies. December is also low season, so while there will still be trekkers on the trail, the numbers are considerably less.

3.Regardless of if you are taking the standard route or the alternative route we’ve suggested, everyone starts their trek with the exhilarating flight into Lukla. At an altitude of 2,860 meters, now is the perfect time to consider taking anti- altitude sickness tablets. While not everyone gets altitude sickness, if you think you might be prone to it, take the tablets early. Don’t wait until 4,000 meters before taking them. Trust us! By the way, Lukla also holds the title as the world’s most dangerous airport runway, needless to say there are only two types of pilots here, good pilots and dead pilots! So cross your fingers and toes and hope for the best.

4. Altitude sickness can be very dangerous, sometimes resulting in death, so take your trekking slow and seriously. Do not ascend more than 400 meters per day. This trek will take you up over 5,000 meters for quite a considerable time, so listen to the advice of your Sherpa guide and don’t try to be a hero.

5.Make sure you see your doctor before you go. You need to be in excellent health and fitness to complete this trek. It is not for the faint hearted. Have your iron levels checked. If your iron levels are low, or you have anemia your athletic performance at altitude will be significantly reduced.

6. Tell your Sherpa guide if you are taking any medication. Medication like ibuprofen and other anti-inflammatory drugs work great if you have a sore knee, but taking them while at altitude can be very dangerous.

7. Sanitise, wash and sanitise! Bad cases of gastritis and other gastrointestinal conditions are very common in the Himalaya. To make this trip a memorable one (for the right reasons) it’s important to control germs and maintain your personal hygiene. Liquid hand sanitizer is easy to carry and should be used at all times. Use it after sneezing, touching your shoes, using the toilet and before eating anything. Also remember that your gloves harbour germs, so always remove them while eating regardless of how cold you are.

8. Hold on to your sunglasses! After witnessing someone using their trekking poles to retrieve their new sunglasses from a very basic drop toilet in Khumjung village, we’d recommend firmly attaching your sunglasses to your head!

9. Take your rubbish out with you. Respect the environment, the mountains and its people. There is considerable evidence of lazy trekkers leaving toilet paper and rubbish throughout the Himalaya. Don’t be one of those people. Leave no trace. Once you are at camp, your Sherpa guide can help you undertake a ‘clean burn’ of any rubbish you have.
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10. Relax, enjoy and choose your altitude, oh we mean attitude. A trip to the Himalaya will change your life. Be nimble and open to the experience.